Early
Summer Update
The next 8
to 10 weeks will bring the highest potential for variety of turf problems due
to higher air and soil temperatures and increased relative humidity. We are
still seeing the effects of diseases that flared up in June, with more disease
outbreaks likely if we get into another extended wet spell. On the other hand,
if we go more than 4-5 days without any beneficial rain, the surface moisture
will deplete, and this will cause your turf to fade into dormancy from drought
and/or heat stress. This dormancy is what causes the lawn to turn brown and is
how the grass plants protect themselves during periods when growing conditions
are not favorable. It is important to note that dormant turf is not dead, but
rather has “fallen asleep”. This same process occurs in November as part of
preparing for winter.
To help prevent the turf from going
dormant during hot and/or dry spells, it is important to mow your lawn so that
it measures 3 inches when done cutting, and water deeply during early morning
hours every 2-3 days between rainfalls. As a general guideline for those of you
with underground sprinklers, you should run each zone for 45-50 min. for the
spray heads that rotate, while stationary spray heads should run for 20-25 min per
zone. Check the soil several hours after watering to make sure the soil is
uniformly wet down to 3 or 4 inches. If not, you may need to adjust the timing
or better yet have your system checked for leaks, proper overlap, etc.
It’s a
Weed! It’s a Grass! NO - It’s NUTSEDGE
Nutsedge starts as one or two
lonely plants that can quickly multiply and spread into other areas of your
lawn
In addition
to crabgrass and various broadleaf weed threats, there is another growth that
has become prevalent in lawns during the summer months called yellow nutsedge.
It can be seen as early as June, but is generally visible from July into mid
September. This perennial grass-like growth has bright lime green leaves which
are flat or slightly corrugated, with triangular shaped stems. It grows quickly
after lawn is cut, rising several inches above the turf canopy. It produces a
yellowish-brown seedhead during August and early September. Nutsedge also has
an extensive but fairly delicate root and rhizome system, with small, bulb-like
tubers atttached to them. While the plants seemingly pull up out of the ground
with ease, most of the roots and tubers remain in the soil and simply
re-generate additional plants.
Control of nutsedge is difficult, as
conventional weed control products have no effect on it. There are a few
specialty products which will offer various levels of control, but are only
available to licensed, professional applicators. These products need to be
applied at specific times and under certain conditions to realize the best
amount of control. If you have a lawn service, they can certainly help you.
Most lawn care companies offer nutsedge control as part of their services. For
help locating a company in your area, you can contact the Massachusetts
Association of Lawn Care Professionals (MALCP) at 781-274-7373.
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